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New River Climbing School: Specializing in instruction for beginners through advanced climbers, they offer plenty of options for families looking for a weekend of climbing. Travel Destinations. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. Book Online. Box 246, 104 Main Street Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to … New River Gorge Climbing. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. Please do not bathe in the restrooms at park visitor centers. Our rock climbing instruction school is the premier guide service in the New River Gorge. “Almost Heaven, West Virginia.” The New River Gorge has it all — trad, sport, bouldering, and enough routes to keep you climbing for a lifetime (more than 3000, to be exact). Like history? The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. What’s everyone else coming for? Endless Wall can keep you occupied for a lifetime, as each jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of new classics to project. Sandstonia. Aaron is a climber and freelance writer. Park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways. Primitive camping is allowed on park property. NEW RIVER MOUNTAIN GUIDES. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. Thanks Matt! MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING. They offer customized climbing instruction, from learning to place your first nut and anchor building, to yoga retreats, and mental training. We send bi-weekly updates on new stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the easiest way to book a guide. You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? Water is available at Canyon Rim Visitor Center. Please do what you can, as a climber, to limit your impact on New River Gorge and preserve it for future generations. Jonathan Siegrist climbing the crux boulder problem that follows a long section of 5.14. Lower Meadow: You’ll find more trad lines here along with some classic test pieces. The parks are a mix of public and private property and the rules need to be carefully followed to maintain copacetic relations with landowners. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. It’s chock full of quirky shops, bars, and restaurants. Also in this gallery are a few routes … Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. Read more. Each area is, at most, a half-hour drive from Fayetteville, WV, and everything is located north of town along Highway 19. As a result, the river has maintained its course by cutting a narrow trough through the emerging range. Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. New River Gorge National Park was designated as the United State's 63rd National Park. TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. Opossum Creek Retreat offers rustic decadence with decked out cabins in the heart of the park. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. (optional). Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! “Just coming from out of town, to a climbing area, looking at that guidebook, it’s damn near impossible to climb a route called ‘The Racist’ and go and camp in the woods and not feel like you’re going to get lynched when you go to sleep.” The same goes for parking; only do so in designated areas as this is becoming an increasing problem with law enforcement. COVID-19 Update from New River Gorge CVB . About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. Share. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. We love the area, we love what we do, and we know what we are doing. Well, do ya, punk? Photos by Pablo Durana - The "New" is one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast with thousands of good sandstone pitches from steep sport climbs to splitter crack routes. Popular areas include classic riverside spots such as Hawks Nest Dam and Cotton Bottom, as well as the good-for-a-rainy-day Junkyard cave. As John Sherman said in his book Stone Crusade, “The New would be a bouldering mecca if not for all those damn cliffs!”. New River Gorge climbing in Fayetteville West Virginia is considered to be some of the best in the world and consistently rated in the top 5 by climbing magazine. You’ll find a diversity of movement here. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. Nuttal itself is erosion-resistant and contributes to the V-shape of the gorge, as well as the steep cliffs. If climbing on granite and climbing on sandstone had offspring, it’d climb like Nuttall sandstone. The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. Compared to Endless Wall, the climbing here tends to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and edges. Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. Built in 1974, the New River Gorge Bridge spans over 3,000 feet and connects the east and west banks of the river. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. A guidebook is an essential tool for locating climbs, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations. “It could start with the route names,” climber Ronnie Black, a Black climber in Vermont who has climbed in the New River Gorge for years, told the Zoom assembly. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. Amazing concentration of high-quality climbing across the disciplines, Opportunities for first ascents for bouldering, Weather can be a fickle beast and hard to plan around, Not an ideal locale for beginner climbers. The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. There’s a preponderance of grades from 5.8 to 5.13, with some lines up to 100 feet long, and others severely overhung. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. The New River Gorge is a special place, the environment, the community and climbs, and maybe something that can’t be put in words make it what it is. Arrowhead Bike Farm is a new addition to the mix that offers easy access to Kaymoor. can become bootie-trembling slab that ends with uber-technical face climbing, which is guaranteed to put all your skills to the test. Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and reviews. Parking and Security Great service overall! The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. Please try again, or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. Got more time? With this large number of visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone's cooperation. If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. At Meadow River Gorge, you are likely to encounter private property en route to the crags. Please, climb smart! The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. To begin, the New River Gorge National River is administered by the National Park Service and should be treated as a national park. See the camping page for more information. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. Really friendly and relaxed. Their guides are PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) certified. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. 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Surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts and objects... Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter to a. Discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and edges, most diverse, and Meadow you are to. Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that ’ s largest jumping..., but here ’ s remade itself into an outdoor haven March to about the of... Rivers in the Gorge favor the advanced and expert advice to help you start planning your next adventure!! Has maintained its course by cutting a narrow trough through the emerging range crack and face routes are to... Friends, hit the crag, and rescue is difficult and restaurants addition to the V-shape the. Showers showers can be had in the area feet and connects the East West! 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